KANYE WEST IS FOOLING THE FASHION WORLD

KANYE WEST IS FOOLING THE FASHION WORLD

A great to-do is made over Kanye West, the Designer. Yesterday, I was embarrassed to find myself running up Tenth Avenue to his Yeezy show — but I feared panic at the door, security guards twice my size, and a path through the mob just big enough for a rat to squeeze through, all of which turned out to be the case. (Of course, Courtney Love, Riccardo Tisci, Seth Meyers, and the Kardashians, all of whom were guests, had a separate VIP entrance maybe ten feet away.)

Yeezy Season 2 was kind of amusing. Again, West worked with the performance artist Vanessa Beecroft, and again, he showed hoodies, baggy pants, and beige under-things, as if time these past six months had stood still. The presentation was in a white-walled basement in Chelsea, with the audience sitting on either side of a wide floor. As a drill sergeant barked out commands — “First row!” — a line of models appeared, followed by a second and a third, all of them in tights or leggings or stretch shorts and tops that looked a lot like Spanx.


Kanye West’s second round of drab, broken-down basics proved he can’t be taken seriously as a designer. Photo: Courtesy of Yeezy
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“Left, right! Left, right!” Those models exited and another batch came out, now dressed in woebegone fatigue jackets and pants, and, I might add, looking rather downcast. They made me think of POWs. The military conceit was apt, given the mind-lock that Kanye has managed to put on the fashion world. This second round of drab, broken-down basics proved he can’t be taken seriously as a designer, but nevertheless many people in fashion do seem to take West seriously — they keep showing up expectantly for his performances — and that makes them fools. Because they wouldn’t bother with this stuff if it were offered by an unknown, and if it’s the spectacle they seek, it changes as little as the clothes.


In their DKNY debut, Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow focused (too much) on the pinstriped office suit of yore, deconstructing it — and apparently ignoring the fact that the style is a bit threadbare. Photo: Imaxtree
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Later, we trooped down to the World Trade Center — actually, into a pedestrian tunnel near the PATH station — for the DKNY debut of designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow. In the decades since Donna Karan spun off DKNY from her main label in 1989, many labels have eaten into the trendy, moderate-priced space it opened, not least Zara and Vince. Chow and Osborne focused (too much) on the pinstriped office suit of yore, deconstructing it — and apparently ignoring the fact that the style is a bit threadbare. Piece by piece, there were some good looks in the show, but it was mostly one-note, comparable to ordering a dozen boxes of Girl Scout cookies and winding up, somehow, with only Thin Mints.

sexy clubwear dress plus size clubwear dresses clubwear for women club dresses For Michael Kors, this was a more moody collection than his usual sunshine and pop-music blast. Photo: Imaxtree
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One of Fashion Week’s big trends is clothes that appear to be sliding off the body — low-slung, liquid-looking trousers, shirts, and dresses open at the shoulders and suspended by straps, and, as Michael Kors said in his show notes, “slashed skirts that catch the wind.” For Kors, this was a more moody collection than his usual sunshine and pop-music blast. The show opener was a minimalist black canvas coat covered in crushed silk flowers. Poet blouses in black or white georgette were beautiful, as were soft tiered dresses, pleated skirts sliced into strips, and a great-looking black gabardine blazer, stripped of lapels, worn with slouchy black pants (the ultimate pantsuit, if you’re in the market). But I kind of missed sunny Kors.


Proenza Schouler's collection was more polished than fall’s, the shapes more feminine and enticing and, I suspect, easier to wear. Photo: Imaxtree
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It fell to Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler to right the day, and bring on some actual fashion. This collection, an evolution of their slashed skirts for fall, also affected a loose attitude, with dresses falling off shoulders and bright-white jackets tied with wide black velvet ribbons. But McCollough and Hernandez did the style with considerably more finesse, or intention, than other designers.

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Backstage, the Proenza designers said they didn’t want to use stiff or bonded fabrics, or leather. For a long while, those materials had been a Proenza staple — and a barrier to appreciating their clothes. But recently they went back over every collection, every outfit, mainly as an exercise to understand their own strengths.

It paid off. This collection was more polished than fall’s, the shapes more feminine and enticing and, I suspect, easier to wear.

The standout looks were viscose knit dresses in either white or black that spilled over the body and, at first glance, looked like cotton eyelet. Somewhat similar in shape was a narrow, tiered dress in white crepe piped in black, and a lovely two-piece silk-crepe dress with a draped, asymmetrical skirt, both in a smudgy red flower print on black. The wide hem of the jacket was a black-and-white polka dot. The silhouette looked fresh, and the eye kept alighting on visual treats, like the silver ball heels of the pointy mules and the way the relatively narrow range of materials enhanced the cut of the clothes, and vice-versa.

Wholesale Lingerie John Lewis also offers bras

The key to looking flawless this season is quality underwear. It's essential that every woman has a good foundation on which to build her look and a simple, well-fitted bra can make a huge difference to your overall appearance and posture.

John Lewis has a range of bras and shapewear in different styles, to suit all your needs, including non-wired, t-shirt, plunge, strapless and sports bras .

First and foremost, make sure you know your bra size. It's strongly recommended that you visit your nearest John Lewis store to be measured, but as that's not always possible, these helpful videos show you how to measure yourself and check for a good fit.

In order to feel great about yourself, it's important to love the underwear you're wearing, so why not go for a fun and playful style? Floral print is a huge trend for spring and this pretty balconette bra (￡67) and knicker set (￡36) by Stella McCartney sums the trend up perfectly. With a colourful floral print, delicate black lace straps and sculpted cups, this lingerie is so beautiful - it would be a shame to cover it up!

Another classic underwear style is lace; it never seems to get old or dated. This beautiful Elle Macpherson Intimates bra (￡28.80) and brief set (￡18.40) layers black lace over bright blue fabric for a sexy, feminine look.
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John Lewis also offers bras in larger cup-sizes, so if you struggle to find the right fit on the High Street, take the hassle out of shopping by visiting johnlewis.com . With free delivery on orders over ￡30 and named, next day and Saturday delivery available, it's quick, convenient and hassle free. Plus you can return anything that's not right for free. This Monet floral print bra (Freya; ￡23.20) is available in sizes 30DD to 36GG and you can buy the matching knickers (Freya; ￡8.40), made from sheer fabric and delicate lace. The vibrant orange and pink print is perfect for a hot, steamy summer.

John Lewis also offers a range of underwear solutions, including plain and simple shapewear that provides support where you need it most. This Ultimate strapless bra by Wonderbra (￡27.20) is perfect to wear under strapless tops or dresses and has comfortable seam-free microfibre cups, which give you that extra lift.

For centuries, women have poured themselves into restrictive undergarments and used tight-fitting corsets to cinch their waists and shape their bodies, but with the latest seamless technologies and breathable fabrics, all that pain is long behind us. This Spanx slip (￡69) will give you a slender silhouette, smoothing out the tummy, hip and thigh areas, so you can wear your favourite little black dress with confidence.

Lingerie brand Ultimo is setting up shop for the first time, marking brand new territory for the retailer.

The lingerie brand opens a concession section in Glasgow's House of Fraser today, allowing shoppers to be fitted and try different shapes, colours and styles before purchasing in the Ultimo 'store within a store'.

Glamorous founder Michelle Mone OBE attended the launch in the department store last night joined by a host of local celebrities and guests to celebrate her company's new move.

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Michelle Mone OBE attended the launch of Ultimo's first concession store in Glasgow on Thursday night

Michelle Mone OBE attended the launch of Ultimo's first concession store in Glasgow on Thursday night

She said: ''We are delighted to launch Ultimo in one of the most prestigious department stores in Glasgow.

'We have carefully selected a collection of Ultimo lingerie that we're confident will appeal to House of Fraser customers and we can't wait to welcome shoppers into store.
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'This is the very first store of 12, so it's a real milestone moment for Ultimo - and extra special for me being in my home town of Glasgow.' 

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The stylish new 'shop' offers the brand's full range of fashion, solution and bridal lingerie collections, in premium boutique-style surroundings.

While Ultimo designs are already sold in Harrods, Next and Debenhams, this is the first concession store fully staffed by Ultimo assistants.

'It's a fuller brand experience,' says a spokesperson, 'a "shop in shop" rather than a department store with a gondola of our product.'

This CGI Ultimo store concept image shows the layout of the new 'shop in shop', the brand's first

This CGI Ultimo store concept image shows the layout of the new 'shop in shop', the brand's first
The House of Fraser Glasgow outpost is one of 12 scheduled concessions to be opened in the next six months

The House of Fraser Glasgow outpost is one of 12 scheduled concessions to be opened in the next six months

The launch is the first of 12 concessions scheduled to open in the next six months before the brand considers standalone shops.

A spokesperson for House of Fraser, Glasgow, said: 'We are proud to welcome such a globally esteemed Scottish lingerie brand as Ultimo to our Glasgow House of Fraser store where we always seek to deliver premium product.'

The new store has been designed by global retail design agency Design4Retail, who have previously designed retail solutions for brands including Cath Kidston, Clarins, Clinique, and Adidas. 

The latest Ultimo ranges are available in sizes 30-38 A-DD, from ￡10 for briefs and ￡20 for bras.
Abbey Clancy SIZZLES while shooting her latest Ultimo campaign

Michelle Mone with models
Radio Clyde presenter Knoxy joined Michelle Mone in House of Fraser

Michelle Mone with models (l) and Radio Clyde presenter Knoxy (r) on Thursday night
This concession store will be fully staffed by Ultimo assistants for a 'fuller brand experience'

This concession store will be fully staffed by Ultimo assistants for a 'fuller brand experience'
Melanie Sykes fit and fab in Ultimo Adore Moi campaign (archive)
Model Abbey Clancy is the current face and body of the Ultimo brand

Model Abbey Clancy is the current face and body of the Ultimo brand

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Last year, all five of the surviving U.S. presidents gathered in Dallas. They were there to dedicate the presidential library of George W. Bush; the show ended up being stolen, however, by the honoree’s father. And, more specifically, by the honoree's father's socks—which poked out from beneath the wheelchair-bound ex-president's pant cuffs, revealing themselves to be a particularly sassy shade of cotton-candy pink.
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This wouldn’t be the first time that the elder President Bush would experiment with adventuresome hosiery; George H.W. has also been photographed sporting designs of lavender and orange and varying combinations of red, white, and blue. In that, he has been in good company. The statement sock—whether distinguished by a bright hue or a bold pattern or both at the same time—has become the go-to fashion accessory for guys from Wall Street, where “Friday socks” is a thing, to Silicon Valley, where every day is Friday. (Startup guys, according to one Bay Area buyer, favor not just colorful socks but also socks decorated with “words like ‘bacon’ and ‘beer’” and also “anything with ninjas.”)
Call it brosiery. Or man-gerie. Either way, it’s giving the tie and the pocket square a run for their money.

All of which helps to explain new sales numbers released today by the retail analytics firm NPD, revealing a 2-percent growth in sock sales between August 2013 and August 2014. That's a rate that has, in a weak economy, outpaced the general growth of the $206.7 billion global apparel market. And NPD speculates that it has been men, in particular, who have driven the increase. As Marshal Cohen, NPD’s chief industry analyst, explains it: “Over the past year, socks have become yet another outlet for expressing the extra splash of pattern and color they seek.”

* * *

The appeal of the statement sock—an answer, perhaps, to the statement jewelry that has long added versatility to women’s wardrobes—has contributed to a somewhat counterintuitive phenomenon: Last year, for the first time in more than a decade, the sales of men's apparel outpaced those for women. Driving the growth, according to the Wall Street Journal? “Double-digit gains in outerwear, pants, and socks.”

In part, to be sure, that increase has been due to sales of athletic socks. In part it’s been due to an increase in the average price of socks, which rose 24 percent between 2011 and 2013 (from $1.76 to $2.18 a pair, according to the NPD Group's Consumer Tracking Service). The other cause, though, has been less about socks as cushion and more about socks as fashion: the appeal of a flash of ankle peeking out from beneath the pant leg of an otherwise hum-drum suit. As the writer Josh Bearman explains it: “Socks are like lingerie for men. Only you know it’s there under your pants, but then when you walk, you give a little peek of what you’ve got on underneath.”

Call it Victor’s secret. Or, um, man-gerie. Or, um, brosiery. Regardless, it's giving the tie and the pocket square a run for their money when it comes to adding pizzazz to guys’ outfits. But the rise of the statement sock also makes you wonder: Why this? Why now? Why did it take so long for socks to become sassy?

* * *

One theory: Europe. Experimentation with gussied-up ankles, NPD’s Marshal Cohen told the Journal last year, started there, and then—like so many Windsor knots and slim-cut pants and spread-collar ginghams, migrated West to the States.
'The consumer-born trend sparked the whole idea of dressing the foot up.'

Another, complementary, theory: Nike. “Socks used to be a commodity part of the basketball business, but we developed a new innovative sock," the Nike executive Jayme Martin recently told a group of the company’s investors, referring to the Elite socks that Nike released in 2008 and issued in various colors and prints. At an average cost of $14 to $18 a pair, the Elites form a crucial component of Nike’s annual $100 million in sock sales. And that’s not just because they are, as barriers between shoe and skin, practical. "Kids aren't just wearing them on the courts,” Martin explained. “They are social currency."

That idea—that recognition that socks can be both commodity and currency—encouraged the company to see them, and sell them, as fashion accessories. As Cohen told the Journal: "What Nike Elite did was bring attention to the better-socks business. It's no longer just grabbing white socks out of the drawer. Now it's got to be this sock. The consumer-born trend sparked the whole idea of dressing the foot up."

Which wasn’t, of course, a wholly new idea. Almost since their invention, socks have doubled as decoration. The earliest versions were made of animal skins, gathered and tied around the wearers’ ankles; later versions—like those worn by the ancient Greeks and Romans—were made of matted animal fur. And socks have long been a kind of status symbol. By 1000 AD, socks—which are, given their shape, labor-intensive to produce—had become symbols of wealth among European nobility. They often included elaborate decorations.
???? A statement sock, made of cotton, from 12th-century Egypt (Wikimedia Commons)

Brosiery continues that tradition. “Socks are a way that I can stand out at work,” Roland Gonzales, who works in finance in New York, explains. “Everyone wears the same sort of conservative uniform,” he says. “This is a way to personalize my work wardrobe.” Rob Kardashian’s line of socks, which he sells at Neiman Marcus, feature messages like “Kiss Me” and “YOLO” on their soles. Sales for these all-too-literal of statement socks tripled in the first six months of business, a success Kardashian attributes to the fact that “everyone is wearing colorful socks.”

An added bonus: Statement socks are an easy and often inexpensive indulgence. Though high-end designs are certainly available (you can buy $185 socks at Barney’s, should your path in life lead to that), you can also buy the socks at stores like Forever 21 and Target, the latter of which says it "has seen a steady interest” in statement socks since introducing them in 2012.

Socks also have also, unsurprisingly, made their way to online retail, where services like Nice Laundry (“the Warby Parker of men’s socks”) sell packs of six pairs with names like "Chief," "Hot Shot," and "Prepster II" for $49 to $59, shipping included. "We make it very easy for you to refresh your entire sock drawer," Ricky Choi, Nice Laundry’s co-founder, told the New York Daily News.

Choi should know: His own sock drawer, he says, has more than 150 pairs

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